Having just posted "The Rant" (again, not that anyone is listening), I have to note one recent exception.
One of the beers I picked up in the mega-store today was Sierra Nevada's Estate. A slight digression...
Sierra Nevada, in my opinion, defined what American microbrewery beer was supposed to taste like. The first real micro I had was Samuel Adams Boston Lager and it is still one of the finest beers the world over. Also, I think Jim Koch did it right. Sam Adams was everywhere before anything else was really everywhere, and still is today. And, no doubt, Fritz Maytag at Anchor Brewery in San Francisco, was THE American microbrewery pioneer. I don't think anyone would doubt this fact. And, Anchor beers are also world class and totally unique in their own right. However, once the micro and home-brewing obsession really hit America and started to mature into what it is today, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale reigned supreme. I cannot count the number of home-brewers I've talked to that started out simply to clone Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. They are the ones that made Cascade hops famous!
OK, enough digression. On to "Estate". As the label claims, at least in America, this must be the only beer ever brewed (at least commercially) using only ingredients grown on the lands associated with the brewery. "Estate" is brewed using only barley and hops grown at Sierra Nevada. How cool is that?! And the taste? Absolutely fabulous! Heavily hopped (I almost wish they would have backed off a bit, but), really fresh hop taste. This is a great beer and the first year they have done it. Make sure you try it and I really hope they keep it up. This needs to be a regular beer in their lineup.
Yours Aye!
Neil
Brewing and blogging in Austin, Texas wishing I were somewhere in Scotland.
Friday, October 16, 2009
My Rant On The State Of American Micros
Anyone that knows me very well knows that I have a Scottish, actually, let it be said, British obsession. This was only reinforced, perhaps more than ever, having just returned from London. I sampled some of the finest beers I have ever tasted the world over in London and the worst of it is, that craving for the taste of these fine cask-conditioned ales can not be satisfied on these shores. Some of the bottled versions - what few are still available in my area - only remotely come close but are better than not having them at all.
So, I happened into two beer mega-stores here in Austin today looking to pick up some beer for the weekend. As always when I go into these stores, I keep an open mind though I usually have a taste for something in particular. I knew I wanted something British but, nevertheless, I always look for something new too. The good news is there usually IS something new. But now, to my rant (brace yourself, this will come as sacrilege to many).
I love the American microbrewery industry. I think there are some of the finest brewers in the world in this community and, I believe, among the most creative. Not being one to ever stifle creativity I do honestly embrace all the new styles they have created. However, I have to say, I am sick to death of two movements in this community that disturb me greatly. One: the "extreme beer", or as I say "double everything possible" movement. Two: Belgian inspired beers.
To clarify, you can ignore number two. I know there is a huge, huge appreciation, at least in America, for Belgian style beers. However, I, for the most part, can't stand any of them. I've met very few that I like but I without doubt appreciate the style and do know a good one when I have one - I just don't like it.
It is number one that disturbs me most. Not because it has happened. It needed to happen. Some of the world's finest beers have come from this pursuit of "more of anything and everything". My argument now is twofold. One, this seems to be all everyone is focusing one: more hops, more malt, more alcohol. There comes a point where more is not better. Of course, this IS American. This country was founded on this and is defined by this, as Americans (and I'm not un-Patriotic, despite what some may think). But two, what disturbs me even more is that everyone has lost sight of: beer. Where are the Pale Ales? Where are the Bitters, Best Bitters? I crave low-to-mid strength, well balanced ales. Where are they? Very few are left. If you don't believe me, go look at your beer mega-mart shelves. What do you see? How many Pales and Bitters are left? They are facing extinction (and American IPAs don't count).
I guess what I'm saying is that I'm a session beer guy. I don't drink beer for the alcohol. I drink beer, good beer, because I love the taste of beer. And, what I value most in a great beer is one simple thing: balance. And, believe it or not, it is one of the hardest things to achieve, especially in a lower alcohol beer. But, one taste of a 3.8% cask-conditioned Chiswick Bitter will change your opinion forever - I almost guarantee it.
So, my challenge (not that any of them are listening): how about a new American beer movement? Well-balanced, highly drinkable, character-filled session style ales? These are the only beers now on my homebrewing list for a long time to come!
Yours Aye!
Neil
So, I happened into two beer mega-stores here in Austin today looking to pick up some beer for the weekend. As always when I go into these stores, I keep an open mind though I usually have a taste for something in particular. I knew I wanted something British but, nevertheless, I always look for something new too. The good news is there usually IS something new. But now, to my rant (brace yourself, this will come as sacrilege to many).
I love the American microbrewery industry. I think there are some of the finest brewers in the world in this community and, I believe, among the most creative. Not being one to ever stifle creativity I do honestly embrace all the new styles they have created. However, I have to say, I am sick to death of two movements in this community that disturb me greatly. One: the "extreme beer", or as I say "double everything possible" movement. Two: Belgian inspired beers.
To clarify, you can ignore number two. I know there is a huge, huge appreciation, at least in America, for Belgian style beers. However, I, for the most part, can't stand any of them. I've met very few that I like but I without doubt appreciate the style and do know a good one when I have one - I just don't like it.
It is number one that disturbs me most. Not because it has happened. It needed to happen. Some of the world's finest beers have come from this pursuit of "more of anything and everything". My argument now is twofold. One, this seems to be all everyone is focusing one: more hops, more malt, more alcohol. There comes a point where more is not better. Of course, this IS American. This country was founded on this and is defined by this, as Americans (and I'm not un-Patriotic, despite what some may think). But two, what disturbs me even more is that everyone has lost sight of: beer. Where are the Pale Ales? Where are the Bitters, Best Bitters? I crave low-to-mid strength, well balanced ales. Where are they? Very few are left. If you don't believe me, go look at your beer mega-mart shelves. What do you see? How many Pales and Bitters are left? They are facing extinction (and American IPAs don't count).
I guess what I'm saying is that I'm a session beer guy. I don't drink beer for the alcohol. I drink beer, good beer, because I love the taste of beer. And, what I value most in a great beer is one simple thing: balance. And, believe it or not, it is one of the hardest things to achieve, especially in a lower alcohol beer. But, one taste of a 3.8% cask-conditioned Chiswick Bitter will change your opinion forever - I almost guarantee it.
So, my challenge (not that any of them are listening): how about a new American beer movement? Well-balanced, highly drinkable, character-filled session style ales? These are the only beers now on my homebrewing list for a long time to come!
Yours Aye!
Neil
Day 6 - Back to London for the final day
Well, this is it, the final day. Too bad we get to spend most of it in airports and on planes. That is the price of getting cheap plane fare. We had to fly through Geneva with a couple hour layover but the flights were thankfully uneventful. We arrived back in London about 5PM and headed back to the hotel (once again by the brilliant Heathrow Express) to drop off our bags.
We had one final mission. Actually, not a mission but a pilgrimage. Not so long ago I waxed lyrical in this very blog about an amazing IPA from Meantime Brewing in London that I purchased in Austin. Well, Anthony being a frequent reader of this blog also sought it ought and he and Chad were equally impressed. So, no trip to London would be complete without a Meantime. I had contacted the brewery prior to the trip to try and arrange a tour of the brewery but they responded that they were not really set up for tours but were moving to a new brewery soon and please come and see them next year. Well, I'd love to, for sure, now if only I can convince my wife another trip is warranted. :) Since we couldn't go to the brewery itself, the next best thing was to visit their one and only pub, in Greenwich, South London, the Greenwich Union.
We initially tried to make this excursion after the Spurs match but the DLR (Docklands Light Railway), like many other Underground lines were closed that day. Undeterred, we set out first thing from the hotel determined not to be defeated this time and it was more than worth the effort. Not only were we able to get the DLR, it was a delightful ride out on this completely new railway through what is mostly recently reclaimed and renovated office buildings and flats. Upon leaving the stop at Greenwich, we once again had to consult what Anthony had dubbed "The Oracle" (my iPhone) for which direction to go upon leaving the station. Walking through what, at first, looked quite a desolate neighbourhood (to use the King's English), soon the street brightened and livened up. The poor punter sitting outside the pub as we walked up was probably quite disturbed by us shooting pictures and quietly celebrating the fact that we were actually here. We entered the quite quaint pub with certainly myself (and probably Chad and Anthony too) thinking "oh, to have a pub like this near home." No, unlike most of the pubs I seek out, this is not necessarily a historic pub but it has that great non-tourist, neighbourhood local feel about it.
One additional great thing about coming to this particular pub is the fact that nearly all Meantime beers are available. In Austin, in particular, we can only get IPA and London Porter. Here, they had all of Alastair Hook's amazing creations. For those not in the know, Alastair is somewhat unique as a brewer. Not only did he study at the prestigious Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh but also in Germany, so he is equally suited to do outstanding British and German beers. I stuck with Meantime's London Pale Ale as I can't get it in the U.S. but Anthony tried it and then branched out to their Kolsch, which was excellent. However, the real story here, astonishingly, was not the beer. No, don't get me wrong, there is no demeaning of the beer in any way. The Greenwich Union has, at least at this point for all of us, THE best chips in the world! Chad and I both ordered Fish and Chips and the fish was outstanding but the chips were beyond compare. They were served in some sort of metal cup and were so good Chad had to order another cup despite already being full. Yes, they were THAT good!
Given the long journey time back to the hotel and not wanting to miss the Underground before it closed, we headed back to the DLR but not without buying some Meantime bottled beers to go. Once we got back to the hotel, Anthony and I had our beers but Chad, poor sod, still feeling somewhat ill, went to sleep pretty quickly after we had packed everything up for the morning as it was an early rise to catch our plane back to the States.
With the windows open, fans going, bags backed and beer drank, it was lights out for the final time. I must say, as I started to drift off to sleep, I really had to pinch myself to be sure this had all really happened. What an outstanding vacation. A beer lover, football lover, food lover, Man's Man of a vacation if ever there was one. And two of the best traveling companions I could have asked for. And, let it be re-stated, this was actually Anthony's trip but there is little doubt it was really "our" trip. As always when I travel I missed my family terribly but this was without question a trip of a lifetime.
Again, I thank my incredible wife, Valarie, so much.
Yours Aye!
Neil
We had one final mission. Actually, not a mission but a pilgrimage. Not so long ago I waxed lyrical in this very blog about an amazing IPA from Meantime Brewing in London that I purchased in Austin. Well, Anthony being a frequent reader of this blog also sought it ought and he and Chad were equally impressed. So, no trip to London would be complete without a Meantime. I had contacted the brewery prior to the trip to try and arrange a tour of the brewery but they responded that they were not really set up for tours but were moving to a new brewery soon and please come and see them next year. Well, I'd love to, for sure, now if only I can convince my wife another trip is warranted. :) Since we couldn't go to the brewery itself, the next best thing was to visit their one and only pub, in Greenwich, South London, the Greenwich Union.
We initially tried to make this excursion after the Spurs match but the DLR (Docklands Light Railway), like many other Underground lines were closed that day. Undeterred, we set out first thing from the hotel determined not to be defeated this time and it was more than worth the effort. Not only were we able to get the DLR, it was a delightful ride out on this completely new railway through what is mostly recently reclaimed and renovated office buildings and flats. Upon leaving the stop at Greenwich, we once again had to consult what Anthony had dubbed "The Oracle" (my iPhone) for which direction to go upon leaving the station. Walking through what, at first, looked quite a desolate neighbourhood (to use the King's English), soon the street brightened and livened up. The poor punter sitting outside the pub as we walked up was probably quite disturbed by us shooting pictures and quietly celebrating the fact that we were actually here. We entered the quite quaint pub with certainly myself (and probably Chad and Anthony too) thinking "oh, to have a pub like this near home." No, unlike most of the pubs I seek out, this is not necessarily a historic pub but it has that great non-tourist, neighbourhood local feel about it.
One additional great thing about coming to this particular pub is the fact that nearly all Meantime beers are available. In Austin, in particular, we can only get IPA and London Porter. Here, they had all of Alastair Hook's amazing creations. For those not in the know, Alastair is somewhat unique as a brewer. Not only did he study at the prestigious Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh but also in Germany, so he is equally suited to do outstanding British and German beers. I stuck with Meantime's London Pale Ale as I can't get it in the U.S. but Anthony tried it and then branched out to their Kolsch, which was excellent. However, the real story here, astonishingly, was not the beer. No, don't get me wrong, there is no demeaning of the beer in any way. The Greenwich Union has, at least at this point for all of us, THE best chips in the world! Chad and I both ordered Fish and Chips and the fish was outstanding but the chips were beyond compare. They were served in some sort of metal cup and were so good Chad had to order another cup despite already being full. Yes, they were THAT good!
Given the long journey time back to the hotel and not wanting to miss the Underground before it closed, we headed back to the DLR but not without buying some Meantime bottled beers to go. Once we got back to the hotel, Anthony and I had our beers but Chad, poor sod, still feeling somewhat ill, went to sleep pretty quickly after we had packed everything up for the morning as it was an early rise to catch our plane back to the States.
With the windows open, fans going, bags backed and beer drank, it was lights out for the final time. I must say, as I started to drift off to sleep, I really had to pinch myself to be sure this had all really happened. What an outstanding vacation. A beer lover, football lover, food lover, Man's Man of a vacation if ever there was one. And two of the best traveling companions I could have asked for. And, let it be re-stated, this was actually Anthony's trip but there is little doubt it was really "our" trip. As always when I travel I missed my family terribly but this was without question a trip of a lifetime.
Again, I thank my incredible wife, Valarie, so much.
Yours Aye!
Neil
Day 5 - Munich
After a pretty sleepless night, not so much due to the drink as to the heat in the room (simply no air moving), we got up fairly late. This is amazing, however, as at sometime around 7AM a workman decided to drill into the concrete right outside our window. This went on and on and on...
Now comes one of my most vivid memories of the trip, don't ask me why. Brian was kind enough to make me one of the finest cups of coffee I have ever had (maybe I just needed it that much). It was wonderful and may have changed my never taking milk with my coffee if it could always be this good. Brian was home sick as a dog from work so I felt equally bad imposing on he and Bridget and their two little ones. We sat outside on the patio that morning in the fine sunshine enjoying the coffee and conversation. It was great. Brian then gave us all the full tour of the flat. Again, amazing. My thanks so much to Brian and Bridget for their hospitality!
Soon, we headed out. Chad was looking for an umbrella for his youngest daughter, so we went to this particular toy store, can't tell you where exactly, but to no avail. We headed to Weisses Brauhaus for lunch, always a great place for food and the best of the Bavarian Weiss biers. Had a great lunch and then headed out for some more shopping although little was actually purchased. Chad had picked up a bug the day before and was feeling really, really poorly. I felt terrible for him. Somehow he soldiered on (I guess it helped him to be in perhaps his favorite city in the world).
I had arranged to meet another friend and former colleague from Munich, Horst and his wife Annemarie. To make things simple, we headed back to Oktoberfest even though we honestly were not quite sure we were ready for it again (that's what old age does to you). We sat outside at a Hacker-Pschorr tent until Horst and Annemarie showed up. Had some bier and they had some food but mostly just catching up with them. During the conversation I mentioned that I was on the lookout for this fabulous Bavarian pork roast dish that I had had once on a previous trip to Munich. I could remember where I had it but not what its name was. Annemarie seemed to know what I was talking about and eventually we looked the restaurant up on the handy, dandy iPhone and headed there for dinner. The restaurant is the Wirtshaus in der Au. I had this dish here, we believe it is called Spanferkel, on a work dinner arranged by my good friend and also former colleague, Hans-Georg Haeck. I was so impressed, I had to have it again. However, I don't think I got exactly what I had had before but the dinner was absolutely fabulous. We basically had a Bavarian family feast and it was just wonderful. The bier was really great too as although it was Oktoberfestbier, it tasted as though it was fresh from the cask.
As we left Wirthaus it quickly dawned on me by the smell that we were very, very hear to the Paulaner Brewery. We could smell the incredible aroma of sweet malt and I have never smelled it so strongly near a brewery as it was that night. What a wonderful science is brewing!
After a fairly early night having had so little sleep the night before we soon retired for the evening ready to head back to London the next morning.
Yours Aye!
Neil
Now comes one of my most vivid memories of the trip, don't ask me why. Brian was kind enough to make me one of the finest cups of coffee I have ever had (maybe I just needed it that much). It was wonderful and may have changed my never taking milk with my coffee if it could always be this good. Brian was home sick as a dog from work so I felt equally bad imposing on he and Bridget and their two little ones. We sat outside on the patio that morning in the fine sunshine enjoying the coffee and conversation. It was great. Brian then gave us all the full tour of the flat. Again, amazing. My thanks so much to Brian and Bridget for their hospitality!
Soon, we headed out. Chad was looking for an umbrella for his youngest daughter, so we went to this particular toy store, can't tell you where exactly, but to no avail. We headed to Weisses Brauhaus for lunch, always a great place for food and the best of the Bavarian Weiss biers. Had a great lunch and then headed out for some more shopping although little was actually purchased. Chad had picked up a bug the day before and was feeling really, really poorly. I felt terrible for him. Somehow he soldiered on (I guess it helped him to be in perhaps his favorite city in the world).
I had arranged to meet another friend and former colleague from Munich, Horst and his wife Annemarie. To make things simple, we headed back to Oktoberfest even though we honestly were not quite sure we were ready for it again (that's what old age does to you). We sat outside at a Hacker-Pschorr tent until Horst and Annemarie showed up. Had some bier and they had some food but mostly just catching up with them. During the conversation I mentioned that I was on the lookout for this fabulous Bavarian pork roast dish that I had had once on a previous trip to Munich. I could remember where I had it but not what its name was. Annemarie seemed to know what I was talking about and eventually we looked the restaurant up on the handy, dandy iPhone and headed there for dinner. The restaurant is the Wirtshaus in der Au. I had this dish here, we believe it is called Spanferkel, on a work dinner arranged by my good friend and also former colleague, Hans-Georg Haeck. I was so impressed, I had to have it again. However, I don't think I got exactly what I had had before but the dinner was absolutely fabulous. We basically had a Bavarian family feast and it was just wonderful. The bier was really great too as although it was Oktoberfestbier, it tasted as though it was fresh from the cask.
As we left Wirthaus it quickly dawned on me by the smell that we were very, very hear to the Paulaner Brewery. We could smell the incredible aroma of sweet malt and I have never smelled it so strongly near a brewery as it was that night. What a wonderful science is brewing!
After a fairly early night having had so little sleep the night before we soon retired for the evening ready to head back to London the next morning.
Yours Aye!
Neil
Thursday, October 15, 2009
Day 4 - Munich for Oktoberfest
Yes, it is finally here. The day we head off to fulfill one of the items on my "Life List" (e.g. things I want to do before I die) - visit the real Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany. We were up early, took our very brief walk in the brilliant morning sunshine and air to Paddington Train Station and on to the Heathrow Express. Checked in for our Lufthansa flight to Munich and soon we were off.
Landed in Munich on another great sunny day, caught the U-Bahn to Ostbahnhof and meandered our way through the streets to our friends', Brian and Bridget, flat. Having guests of their own already (Brian's brother and entourage), they were all headed for Oktoberfest so we let ourselves in. What a fantastic flat! In a building dating from the 1800s that was recently gutted and fully renovated into flats, Brian and Bridget did it right. They got in early and got a sweet ground floor spot with a porch and a basement, of all things. Even cooler, it essentially has a its own small apartment in it that they rent out when they want and, thankfully for us, use for guests of their own. I can't say enough about their place. Really awesome!
After a quick drop off of the bags, Chad rang old friend and colleague of ours, Peter Broderick, an Englishman that has lived in Munich for a long time. We met up with Peter and headed to Oktoberfest. The weather was so nice we met at Marienplatz and just walked to Theresienwiese (Therese's Meadow), the location of Oktoberfest. Started outside at the Augustiner "tent" since Augustiner is Chad and I's favorite Bavarian brewery. Had some food and, of course, some bier. I say "tent" because if you've never actually been to the Oktoberfest, these so-called tents are a whole lot more like aircraft hangers and despite being put up and taken down each year look like permanent structures.
We visited a number of "tents" from different breweries. In one, we met an absolutely lovely young German couple who spoke great English and were, in fact, moving to Washington, D.C. soon. We all quickly became friends and we all stayed together the rest of the evening. Now, I could on and on about the bier but what surprised Anthony and I the most (Chad has been here before having lived and worked in Munich for some eighteen odd months) was the music. No sir, little to no Oompah to be had here! The most popular songs repeated by band after band were, shall I say, "interesting", to say the least. Peter told us that these bands - all very, very good - come from small towns all over Germany. Really cool! Obviously, most of the crowd thought so as well as in tent after tent folks were dancing on the tables and singing to their favorite tunes.
After closing down the Hippodrome, we headed back to the flat. However, our much younger temporary flat mates soon informed us they were heading out to a club. Little can be said from my personal perspective about the club. The bier was terrible, the music loud and thumping (and not in a good way) and, having not mentioned it before and worst of all, the smoke. Living in Austin which is pretty much a restaurant and bar smoke-free city, it was tough to be in so much smoke for so long, including the time at Oktoberfest. Someone really needs to apply their smarts and come up with a better system for ventilating indoor spaces where people smoke. Honestly, it never used to bother me and I've had friends that smoke nearly all my life but I can't really take it anymore.
In a haze (literally), we made it back to the flat and somehow into bed (except for poor Chad sleeping on the air mattress on the floor). And that was the close of a truly "Life List" day, indeed!
Yours Aye!
Neil
Landed in Munich on another great sunny day, caught the U-Bahn to Ostbahnhof and meandered our way through the streets to our friends', Brian and Bridget, flat. Having guests of their own already (Brian's brother and entourage), they were all headed for Oktoberfest so we let ourselves in. What a fantastic flat! In a building dating from the 1800s that was recently gutted and fully renovated into flats, Brian and Bridget did it right. They got in early and got a sweet ground floor spot with a porch and a basement, of all things. Even cooler, it essentially has a its own small apartment in it that they rent out when they want and, thankfully for us, use for guests of their own. I can't say enough about their place. Really awesome!
After a quick drop off of the bags, Chad rang old friend and colleague of ours, Peter Broderick, an Englishman that has lived in Munich for a long time. We met up with Peter and headed to Oktoberfest. The weather was so nice we met at Marienplatz and just walked to Theresienwiese (Therese's Meadow), the location of Oktoberfest. Started outside at the Augustiner "tent" since Augustiner is Chad and I's favorite Bavarian brewery. Had some food and, of course, some bier. I say "tent" because if you've never actually been to the Oktoberfest, these so-called tents are a whole lot more like aircraft hangers and despite being put up and taken down each year look like permanent structures.
We visited a number of "tents" from different breweries. In one, we met an absolutely lovely young German couple who spoke great English and were, in fact, moving to Washington, D.C. soon. We all quickly became friends and we all stayed together the rest of the evening. Now, I could on and on about the bier but what surprised Anthony and I the most (Chad has been here before having lived and worked in Munich for some eighteen odd months) was the music. No sir, little to no Oompah to be had here! The most popular songs repeated by band after band were, shall I say, "interesting", to say the least. Peter told us that these bands - all very, very good - come from small towns all over Germany. Really cool! Obviously, most of the crowd thought so as well as in tent after tent folks were dancing on the tables and singing to their favorite tunes.
After closing down the Hippodrome, we headed back to the flat. However, our much younger temporary flat mates soon informed us they were heading out to a club. Little can be said from my personal perspective about the club. The bier was terrible, the music loud and thumping (and not in a good way) and, having not mentioned it before and worst of all, the smoke. Living in Austin which is pretty much a restaurant and bar smoke-free city, it was tough to be in so much smoke for so long, including the time at Oktoberfest. Someone really needs to apply their smarts and come up with a better system for ventilating indoor spaces where people smoke. Honestly, it never used to bother me and I've had friends that smoke nearly all my life but I can't really take it anymore.
In a haze (literally), we made it back to the flat and somehow into bed (except for poor Chad sleeping on the air mattress on the floor). And that was the close of a truly "Life List" day, indeed!
Yours Aye!
Neil
Monday, October 5, 2009
Day 3 - London: GAME DAY!
Well, it is finally here, Tottenham Hotspur v. Burnley. The real reason for the trip and we're all pretty pumped up. After a bit of a lie in it being Saturday morning and all, we eventually got our act together and left the hotel about noon and headed for Paddington Station Underground stop. We decided the best course of action was to take the Hammersmith and City line (City direction) from Paddington to Liverpool Street to catch the train to White Hart Lane. We boarded the train but were quickly told there were problems with the line and it would stop at the next stop, Edgeware Road and go no further. I'm having difficultly remembering what happened next but eventually we gave up on the Underground and grabbed a taxi to Liverpool Street. We then quickly got the train to White Hart Lane and were there in plenty of time for the match. Once we arrived we just followed the crowd to the stadium.
If you would have told me we would witness such a great match in such an incredible atmosphere on such a brilliant sunshiny day - in London of all places, I would never have believed it. Don't get me wrong, I had high expectations for the match but little would I have guessed that it would have been quite so great. Non-stop singing and chanting and general good-natured badgering from the home fans along with an amazing 5-nil victory with a hat trick from Robbie Keane just topped this amazing experience. One I will not soon forget. (Sorry, Celtic, you're still my team, but this was really cool).
After Anthony and Chad hit the Spurs shop we headed back to central London. After a brief stop at the hotel to drop some things off we headed back out on another great pub quest. Our initial plan was to try and get to Meantime Brewing's only pub, the Greenwich Union in Greenwich. However, the hour was getting a bit late and with the earlier troubles with the Tube we opted to put this off until Tuesday evening and instead headed for a couple of pubs on my list near Notting Hill Gate.
We called in at the Cock & Bottle and sampled Hogs Back T.E.A. (Traditional English Ale). Unfortunately, for whatever reason, I can't recall what else we sampled here. On the way to our next destination, we stumbled across the Duke of Wellington on Portobello Road, a Youngs (now Wells and Youngs) owned pub. I have always been a big fan of Youngs beers and we used to get a really good selection in Austin. Sadly, since the merger, we no longer get any Youngs beers. So, it was my good fortune to run across this pub and actually get a cask Youngs Bitter. Anthony tried the excellent Wells Bombardier. This was a great pub full of lively, young and attractive people on a fabulous evening in Notting Hill.
We then moved on to the Uxbridge Arms, another fine pub where we tried the outstanding Cornish ale, Tribute, from St Austell Brewery. I have to say though, I nearly lost my pint due to laughter when Anthony was approached by a lad in a suit that reminded me - highly coincidentally - of the Welsh roommate in the movie "Notting Hill". He was pushing some cult philosophy (sorry, can't remember the name of the movement and it is hardly worth the mention as I would never promote it) but Anthony quickly headed him off by proclaiming that his implications would offend him as he was Buddhist (which he unabashedly is not). The poor fool was absolutely speechless after this and promptly left us alone. Thankfully, I was able to finish my glorious pint of Tribute in peace.
We then headed to what would be our last pub of the evening, the classic and historic Fullers owned Victoria, very near our hotel. On such a beautiful evening we sat outside and I enjoyed another couple of pints of Chiswick Bitter. Not surprisingly, hunger set in once again. On our way to the Victoria, we passed an Indian restaurant right across the road that smelled fabulous. Needless to say, the urge was overwhelming and we enjoyed an amazing Indian meal before we retired for the evening. An absolutely fabulous day indeed!
Tomorrow, up early, back on the Heathrow Express and off to Munich, Germany for Oktoberfest.
Yours Aye!
Neil
If you would have told me we would witness such a great match in such an incredible atmosphere on such a brilliant sunshiny day - in London of all places, I would never have believed it. Don't get me wrong, I had high expectations for the match but little would I have guessed that it would have been quite so great. Non-stop singing and chanting and general good-natured badgering from the home fans along with an amazing 5-nil victory with a hat trick from Robbie Keane just topped this amazing experience. One I will not soon forget. (Sorry, Celtic, you're still my team, but this was really cool).
After Anthony and Chad hit the Spurs shop we headed back to central London. After a brief stop at the hotel to drop some things off we headed back out on another great pub quest. Our initial plan was to try and get to Meantime Brewing's only pub, the Greenwich Union in Greenwich. However, the hour was getting a bit late and with the earlier troubles with the Tube we opted to put this off until Tuesday evening and instead headed for a couple of pubs on my list near Notting Hill Gate.
We called in at the Cock & Bottle and sampled Hogs Back T.E.A. (Traditional English Ale). Unfortunately, for whatever reason, I can't recall what else we sampled here. On the way to our next destination, we stumbled across the Duke of Wellington on Portobello Road, a Youngs (now Wells and Youngs) owned pub. I have always been a big fan of Youngs beers and we used to get a really good selection in Austin. Sadly, since the merger, we no longer get any Youngs beers. So, it was my good fortune to run across this pub and actually get a cask Youngs Bitter. Anthony tried the excellent Wells Bombardier. This was a great pub full of lively, young and attractive people on a fabulous evening in Notting Hill.
We then moved on to the Uxbridge Arms, another fine pub where we tried the outstanding Cornish ale, Tribute, from St Austell Brewery. I have to say though, I nearly lost my pint due to laughter when Anthony was approached by a lad in a suit that reminded me - highly coincidentally - of the Welsh roommate in the movie "Notting Hill". He was pushing some cult philosophy (sorry, can't remember the name of the movement and it is hardly worth the mention as I would never promote it) but Anthony quickly headed him off by proclaiming that his implications would offend him as he was Buddhist (which he unabashedly is not). The poor fool was absolutely speechless after this and promptly left us alone. Thankfully, I was able to finish my glorious pint of Tribute in peace.
We then headed to what would be our last pub of the evening, the classic and historic Fullers owned Victoria, very near our hotel. On such a beautiful evening we sat outside and I enjoyed another couple of pints of Chiswick Bitter. Not surprisingly, hunger set in once again. On our way to the Victoria, we passed an Indian restaurant right across the road that smelled fabulous. Needless to say, the urge was overwhelming and we enjoyed an amazing Indian meal before we retired for the evening. An absolutely fabulous day indeed!
Tomorrow, up early, back on the Heathrow Express and off to Munich, Germany for Oktoberfest.
Yours Aye!
Neil
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Day 2 - London
Today, Friday, the original plan was for myself, Chad and Anthony to all head to the Fuller's Brewery in Chiswick. However, having discussed it further, this being Anthony's first time to London, he and Chad opted for the better option for themselves to go sight seeing and I went on to the brewery on my own. Did I mention the weather was absolutely incredible! Not a cloud in the sky, almost unheard of in London. Anyway, Chad and Anthony headed down to Westminster Abbey and that general area and took in a great many of London's sites.
I took the Underground out to Chiswick, a lovely neighbourhood, and walked the short walk down Chiswick High Street, down Chiswick Lane, and on to the Fuller's Brewery. I had an 11AM appointment with Head Brewer, John Keeling, primarily to interview him for the Brewing Network's "Can You Brew It" (hosted by Jamil Zainasheff) internet radio show, but also for a personal discussion on Fuller's Parti-Gyle brewing process. My interest in this is due to the fact that nearly all UK brewers used this process in the early 1800s and I have acquired a great many Scottish brewing records that employed it. To my knowledge, Fuller's is the only brewery in the UK still using this process.
The interview went great and John was a very accommodating interviewee. I extend my eternal gratitude to him for an amazingly fascinating hour and forty-five minutes. Did I mention, I believe it was John's day off too so I am additionally grateful that he was willing to come in just to speak with me. This was an experience I will never forget, for sure. I was then scheduled for the official tour of the brewery at 1PM. Though the brewery has been modernized to a great deal, they have left some of the original equipment in place so that one can get a real feel for what a classic Victorian era brewery might have been like. Great tour and then down to the tap room for tasting. I tried all of the Fuller's range as well as Gales HSB (Horndean Special Bitter) that Fuller's now brews having acquired Gales in December, 2005. This was also an amazing ale! Yet another new favorite of mine.
When I was sure this trip was going to happen, one of the first and highest priority things on my personal list was to stop by the late, great Beer Hunter, Michael Jackson's, local pub, The Andover Arms in Hammersmith. As luck would have it, the Hammersmith Underground stop was a short distance from Chiswick and the pub itself a short walk from the stop. So I made my way in the brilliant sunshine to the pub thinking along the way of how often Michael might have made this very walk. Being the middle of the afternoon, the pub itself was empty with the exception of a couple of locals. I ordered a pint of Michael's favorite tipple, Fullers Chiswick Bitter but unfortunately it was off. So instead I had a pint of Gales HSB, again, now brewed by Fullers, in his honor and sat quietly in the pub contemplating what an incredible writer and fascinating speaker he was. Truly one of the greatest losses the beer world has ever suffered.
I made my way back to the hotel to drop off my recording equipment and arranged to meet up with Chad and Anthony at Blackfriars pub near the Blackfriars Underground stop. After considerable delay due to it being Friday afternoon and the actual Blackfriars stop being closed, I eventually made it to the pub where the lads were fortunate enough to beat the crowds and get a table right out front near the street on such an incredible day. Anthony, in particular, really enjoyed the sunshine and people watching. We had arranged to meet up with a former colleague and friend of Chad and I's, Jim Walsh later that evening so we headed in the direction of our rendezvous point.
Having some time prior to the arranged meeting time, we headed to the historic Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub. We had some great steak pies but were all quite disappointed with the beer selection, the only cask beer on offer being Samuel Smith Bitter. None of us were very thrilled with this beer; nothing really wrong with it, just very little character. However, the pub itself was a great experience and the food was just what the doctor ordered. We headed on to our meeting point for the evening, The Cittie Of Yorke pub - unfortunately for us another Samuel Smith's owned pub. However, this did not diminish the grandeur and history of this amazing pub. Again, only Sam Smith's on offer but the atmosphere and architecture of the interior made it well worth the trip and a must visit for any fan of historical pubs.
Jim and his lovely wife, Jenn, showed up and the conversation, as is always expected with Jim, became very lively and entertaining. Chad had met Jenn before but neither Anthony nor I had. It was truly a pleasure to meet her and to be in the company of such a fun-loving couple. We had a couple of rounds and then headed out as Jim and Jenn had to catch a train back to Cambridge. As we walked toward the general direction I spied a Weatherspoon pub and they agreed they had time for a bit of a further nightcap. Wonderfully for me - and Anthony, as it turns out - they had Caledonian 80/-, always a great pint, one of my favorite beers in the world, and one of the only contemporary examples of the style still brewed in Scotland. I won't mention the whisky that Jenn insisted on Anthony having and I'll leave it at that. Jim and Jenn headed off and we were soon to follow heading back to the hotel. This brought our first opportunity for what every tourist to London must experience - the taxi ride!
So, back to Paddington and once again, hunger set in. Thankfully for us, the Upper Crust was open late and their baguettes truly hit the spot! Highly recommended.
And, off to bed as tomorrow is GAME DAY!
Yours Aye!
Neil
I took the Underground out to Chiswick, a lovely neighbourhood, and walked the short walk down Chiswick High Street, down Chiswick Lane, and on to the Fuller's Brewery. I had an 11AM appointment with Head Brewer, John Keeling, primarily to interview him for the Brewing Network's "Can You Brew It" (hosted by Jamil Zainasheff) internet radio show, but also for a personal discussion on Fuller's Parti-Gyle brewing process. My interest in this is due to the fact that nearly all UK brewers used this process in the early 1800s and I have acquired a great many Scottish brewing records that employed it. To my knowledge, Fuller's is the only brewery in the UK still using this process.
The interview went great and John was a very accommodating interviewee. I extend my eternal gratitude to him for an amazingly fascinating hour and forty-five minutes. Did I mention, I believe it was John's day off too so I am additionally grateful that he was willing to come in just to speak with me. This was an experience I will never forget, for sure. I was then scheduled for the official tour of the brewery at 1PM. Though the brewery has been modernized to a great deal, they have left some of the original equipment in place so that one can get a real feel for what a classic Victorian era brewery might have been like. Great tour and then down to the tap room for tasting. I tried all of the Fuller's range as well as Gales HSB (Horndean Special Bitter) that Fuller's now brews having acquired Gales in December, 2005. This was also an amazing ale! Yet another new favorite of mine.
When I was sure this trip was going to happen, one of the first and highest priority things on my personal list was to stop by the late, great Beer Hunter, Michael Jackson's, local pub, The Andover Arms in Hammersmith. As luck would have it, the Hammersmith Underground stop was a short distance from Chiswick and the pub itself a short walk from the stop. So I made my way in the brilliant sunshine to the pub thinking along the way of how often Michael might have made this very walk. Being the middle of the afternoon, the pub itself was empty with the exception of a couple of locals. I ordered a pint of Michael's favorite tipple, Fullers Chiswick Bitter but unfortunately it was off. So instead I had a pint of Gales HSB, again, now brewed by Fullers, in his honor and sat quietly in the pub contemplating what an incredible writer and fascinating speaker he was. Truly one of the greatest losses the beer world has ever suffered.
I made my way back to the hotel to drop off my recording equipment and arranged to meet up with Chad and Anthony at Blackfriars pub near the Blackfriars Underground stop. After considerable delay due to it being Friday afternoon and the actual Blackfriars stop being closed, I eventually made it to the pub where the lads were fortunate enough to beat the crowds and get a table right out front near the street on such an incredible day. Anthony, in particular, really enjoyed the sunshine and people watching. We had arranged to meet up with a former colleague and friend of Chad and I's, Jim Walsh later that evening so we headed in the direction of our rendezvous point.
Having some time prior to the arranged meeting time, we headed to the historic Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub. We had some great steak pies but were all quite disappointed with the beer selection, the only cask beer on offer being Samuel Smith Bitter. None of us were very thrilled with this beer; nothing really wrong with it, just very little character. However, the pub itself was a great experience and the food was just what the doctor ordered. We headed on to our meeting point for the evening, The Cittie Of Yorke pub - unfortunately for us another Samuel Smith's owned pub. However, this did not diminish the grandeur and history of this amazing pub. Again, only Sam Smith's on offer but the atmosphere and architecture of the interior made it well worth the trip and a must visit for any fan of historical pubs.
Jim and his lovely wife, Jenn, showed up and the conversation, as is always expected with Jim, became very lively and entertaining. Chad had met Jenn before but neither Anthony nor I had. It was truly a pleasure to meet her and to be in the company of such a fun-loving couple. We had a couple of rounds and then headed out as Jim and Jenn had to catch a train back to Cambridge. As we walked toward the general direction I spied a Weatherspoon pub and they agreed they had time for a bit of a further nightcap. Wonderfully for me - and Anthony, as it turns out - they had Caledonian 80/-, always a great pint, one of my favorite beers in the world, and one of the only contemporary examples of the style still brewed in Scotland. I won't mention the whisky that Jenn insisted on Anthony having and I'll leave it at that. Jim and Jenn headed off and we were soon to follow heading back to the hotel. This brought our first opportunity for what every tourist to London must experience - the taxi ride!
So, back to Paddington and once again, hunger set in. Thankfully for us, the Upper Crust was open late and their baguettes truly hit the spot! Highly recommended.
And, off to bed as tomorrow is GAME DAY!
Yours Aye!
Neil
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